Nobody expects a visitor to know every custom, and no one will be unkind about an honest mistake. But a handful of things are worth knowing before you arrive, because they are easy to get right and genuinely matter to the people around you.
What to wear
Cover shoulders and knees. That is essentially the whole rule, and it applies to everyone. Beyond it, comfort wins - you will be walking on uneven stone in heat, and cotton is your friend.
- Shoulders and knees covered at every temple
- A scarf or stole is useful - it covers a head or a shoulder at short notice
- Shoes you can slip off quickly, because you will do it a dozen times a day
- Leather belts and bags are refused at some major temples, including Kashi Vishwanath
- Avoid anything you would mind sitting on a stone floor in
Shoes, phones and cameras
Shoes come off before you enter, and there is almost always a stand outside where they are minded for a few rupees. Phones and cameras are barred entirely from some complexes rather than simply discouraged, so plan to leave them behind rather than argue at the gate.
Photography at the burning ghats
This is the one that is not negotiable. Photography is forbidden at Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats. These are functioning cremation grounds and the families there are burying someone. Your guide will ask you to put the camera away before you get close, and if anyone offers to let you photograph for a fee, they do not have the standing to give that permission.
You may watch. You may not photograph. It is the same rule you would want at your own family funeral.
Vidya Pathak, Head Guide
Elsewhere, ask before photographing people, particularly priests mid-ritual and women at the ghats. Almost everyone says yes, and the asking is the entire point.
Frequently asked
Most temples in Varanasi welcome visitors of any faith, including Kashi Vishwanath. A small number of shrines restrict the inner sanctum. Your guide will tell you which before you reach the door rather than at it.
Not at most Hindu temples in Varanasi, though it is appreciated. It is expected at gurudwaras and at some shrines, which is why a light scarf is worth carrying.
